Cooking Italian brought up to eat with old men (8)

I haven't cracked this one yet — but the brilliant team at Times for the Times have:

Several Italian cooking products fit the space, if not the crossers, and I tried most of them before realising that it’s the reverse (brought up) of IT[alian] taking in AND for with and O[ld] O[ther]R[anks] men. Today’s most complex clue.