What does the cryptic crossword clue "Heading for Baghdad or Tehran, travelling's awful (9)" mean?

This cryptic clue uses wordplay to arrive at the answer. Visit the page for progressive hints — definition, wordplay type, and a full step-by-step explanation.

Heading for Baghdad or Tehran, travelling's awful (9)

Guardian Cryptic #27165 | 7 Down | 2017-04-07

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