Kuwait's capital Arabs are changing old settlement (5,4)

Times Cryptic #28993 | 14 Across | 2024-08-12
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I haven't cracked this one yet — but the brilliant team at Times for the Times have:

anagram* of Kuwait ARABS ARE. A site on Mainland Orkney. I have spent many happy weeks on Gairsay, one of the smallest inhabitated isles in the UK.

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