What does the cryptic crossword clue "Lower level press employee returning pastries with hesitation (10)" mean?

The definition is "Lower level". The wordplay uses a reversal. SUB (synonym="SUB") + TARTS (reversal="TARTS") + UM (synonym="UM") = SUBSTRATUM; definition: "Lower level" The answer is SUBSTRATUM.

Lower level press employee returning pastries with hesitation (10)

Times Cryptic #28633 | 13 Across | 2023-06-19 flower

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