What does the cryptic crossword clue "Meat cut from armadillo? I never! (4)" mean?

The definition is "Meat". The wordplay uses a hidden word. hidden in "armadillo? I never!" The answer is LOIN.

Meat cut from armadillo? I never! (4)

Guardian Cryptic #27692 | 16 Across | 2018-12-14 flower