Old defence area not fiddled with in high-scoring draw? (8,4)

Times Cryptic #28851 | 4 Down | 2024-02-28
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I haven't cracked this one yet — but the brilliant team at Times for the Times have:

A (area), (NOT)*,  NINE ALL with W[ith}inserted. The Antonine Wall was the northernmost border of the Roman Empire in these islands, running from the Firth of Clyde to the Firth of Forth, 63 km long, 3 m high and 5 m wide. Quite a thing.

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