What does the cryptic crossword clue "One of the things an expert should know to call a side dish item (5,4)" mean?

The definition is "One". The wordplay uses a deletion. ONION (synonym="one of the things an expert should know – from the expression ‘to know one’s onions’") + RING (synonym="call") = ONIONRING The answer is ONIONRING.

One of the things an expert should know to call a side dish item (5,4)

Guardian Cryptic #29437 | 25 Across | 2024-07-17 flower

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