What does the cryptic crossword clue "What’s dear in France? Alien cooking (top Chinese) (4,2-3)" mean?

The wordplay uses an anagram. CHOU (synonym="‘dear in France’; cabbage is an affectionate name less common in English, but I recall an episode of The Crown in which Queen Elizabeth lets on that Prince Philip used it of her") + ENLAI (synonym="ENLAI") = CHOUENLAI The answer is CHOUENLAI.

What’s dear in France? Alien cooking (top Chinese) (4,2-3)

Guardian Cryptic #29468 | 27 Across | 2024-08-22 flower

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