What does the cryptic crossword clue "Zest to put away doughnut or substantial puff (4)" mean?

The definition is "puff". The wordplay uses a deletion. GUST (deletion) = GUST; definition: "substantial puff" The answer is GUST.

Zest to put away doughnut or substantial puff (4)

Guardian Cryptic #28935 | 25 Down | 2022-12-08 flower